[Day 2] Enjoying Gourmet Food on a 2-Day Trip in Kanazawa, Where Old Townscapes Remain Discover Oishii Japan -SAVOR JAPAN -Japanese Restaurant Guide-

Update-date: May 16 2024

Author: SAVOR JAPAN

Categories: French Izakaya Kanazawa Ishikawa

[Day 2] Enjoying Gourmet Food on a 2-Day Trip in Kanazawa, Where Old Townscapes Remain

In Kanazawa, where many beautiful traditional townhouses remain, one can feel the history. It's a place bustling with both inbound and domestic tourists, drawing visitors from all over the world. However, in the January 2024 earthquake, Kanazawa also experienced significant shaking, resulting in both human and material losses, as well as a wave of cancellations in the tourism sector. Now, three months after the earthquake, visiting Kanazawa gives the impression that it is gradually recovering its former appearance, possibly due to the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line and the support measures for the Hokuriku region. I will introduce a two-day trip focusing on the current Kanazawa, highlighting its wonderful restaurants and tourist spots.

See full listings of Izakaya and French restaurants found in and around Kanazawa and Ishikawa.

[Day 1] Enjoying Gourmet Food on a 2-Day Trip in Kanazawa, Where Old Townscapes Remain

Day 2

9:30 am: D. T. Suzuki Museum

Even without going inside, simply strolling around the perimeter of the D. T. Suzuki Museum is a very pleasant experience.

On the first night, we stayed near the Kohrinbo area, so we used the morning to stroll around the area. The D. T. Suzuki Museum was built to convey the philosophy of Daisetsu Suzuki, a Buddhist philosopher and pioneering figure in spreading the spirit of Zen Buddhism worldwide. The hall consists of three buildings and three gardens connected by corridors, providing ample space for visitors to learn about Daisetsu Suzuki and contemplate their own thoughts.

There are many recommended spots nearby where you can feel nature while taking a walk, such as the "Green Path" and "Kasumiga-ike Pond."

11:30 am: Lunch at "A la ferme de Shinjiro"

It's a quaint house renovated from a Taisho-era Kanazawa machiya.

After checking out, we headed straight to lunch. About a 7-minute bus ride from Kohrinbo, we got off at Owari-cho and found ourselves at "A la ferme de Shinjiro." This French restaurant is operated by Kanazawa Winery, which produces wine from grapes grown in Ishikawa Prefecture. The first floor houses the winery, while the restaurant is located on the second floor.

You can also take a tour of the winery on the first floor and enjoy tastings (for a fee). If you find a wine you like during your meal at the restaurant, you can purchase it to take home with you.

While exuding a classical atmosphere, the restaurant's warm interior with its predominant use of wood creates a cozy and soothing ambiance.

They use organic wheat and rice grown in their own farm, carefully selected organic vegetables, and seasonal local ingredients such as fresh fish delivered directly from Kanazawa Port and Noto's markets. They prepare dishes using French culinary techniques. Both lunch and dinner are served exclusively as course meals, and this time we ordered the "Dejeuner A" for 5,500 JPY.

"Noto-Kanazawa Seasonal Assorted Appetizers," featuring ingredients sourced from Noto and Kanazawa.

Following the amuse-bouche soup, the beautifully presented dish is an assortment of appetizers. It features "Sweet Shrimp" as the centerpiece, accompanied by "White Asparagus Mousse," "Noto Pork Pate," "Golden Needle Plant and Spear Squid Salad," "Gizzard and Carrot Confit," and "Noto Beef Roast Beef," among others. Each dish showcases local ingredients in delicious and visually stunning presentations, eliciting a sense of excitement and appreciation.

The drink menu features wines from Kanazawa Winery as the main focus, along with a selection of beer, sake, and non-alcoholic drinks. The wine pairing option is available for 3,500 JPY. For this dish, they recommend the "OKU-NOTO Chardonnay 2022."

The main course features Japanese seabass, with a light and refreshing flavor reminiscent of sea bream. The skin is crispy while the flesh is juicy and flavorful. It's served with a beurre blanc sauce. The leafy vegetables are sourced from the "NOTO Taka Farm" on Noto Island.

While enjoying the meal, we had the opportunity to speak with Chef Susaki. He mentioned that he has been living in Kanazawa for five years now and that his family was safe during the January earthquake. However, the vineyards operated by Kanazawa Winery, which owns the restaurant, are located in Suzu City and suffered significant damage. "We also cultivate organic rice paddies," Chef Susaki shared, "but there are aspects we can't assess until we fill them with water, so I'm concerned about the increasing damage that may occur in the future."

"Suzu City has only recently become accessible in the past one to two months, and there are still many areas where fissures caused by fault lines remain. While we often hear the word 'reconstruction,' it feels like we're still dealing with issues that precede that."

Among the discussions about what people living in Tokyo can do to support the affected areas, there was a story shared like this:

"This is a personal story of mine. I was born and raised in Tokyo, so I've always had a fascination with nature. But coming here and working in the fields, I felt like I was reconnecting with my humanity. I realized there's a significant difference between gathering information online and thinking with your head versus experiencing it firsthand. When disasters happen, just thinking about what you can do with your head can diminish humility. I believe it's most important to actually go outside, go to the fields, and work together with your hands."

Certainly, it's important and necessary to do what you can within your own reach. However, the idea of being complacent and only doing what is within your comfort zone really made me think. I strongly feel that by physically moving, even if it's just a little, going to the affected areas, working with your hands, and engaging in conversations with local people, you can gain insights and experiences that you can't get otherwise.

1:30 pm: Reset the senses at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa.

1:30 pm: Reset our senses at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa

The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa, a renowned tourist destination. Established in 2004 as an "open museum" dedicated to contemporary art, it features both a paid "exhibition zone" and a free "interaction zone." One of its most famous attractions is Leandro Erlich's "Swimming Pool" located in the exhibition zone.

The spherical pavilion called "The Round" is another notable feature of the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa.

The impact of the Noto Peninsula earthquake has also affected this museum. Some of the exhibition rooms in the exhibition zone suffered damage, such as the peeling of glass panels from the ceilings. As a result, the museum will be closed for maintenance and repairs until June 21, 2024. Entry to attractions like the "Swimming Pool" has also been suspended during this period.

The closed facilities include:- Exhibition Zone
- Long-term Installation Room
- Design Gallery

Accessible Areas in the "Interaction Zone":
- Citizen Gallery A & B
- Turrell Room
- Art Library
- Nursery Room
- Kids Studio
- Tea Room
- Lecture Hall

Additionally, the following facilities have reduced operating hours:

Café Restaurant:

Operating Hours: 10:00 am - 6:00 pm (L.O. 5:00 pm)

Closed on Mondays (Open on public holidays, closed the following weekday)

Museum Shop:

Operating Hours: 10:00 am - 6:00 pm

Closed on Mondays (Open on public holidays, closed the following weekday)

The "Rabbit Chair" is located in the Interaction Zone, so visitors can continue to take photos as usual. It was bustling with many people as usual.

"The Turrell Room" is also available for viewing. It captures the passing light and engages with human perceptual experiences (seeing and feeling). Upon entering the room, one's gaze is drawn to the square-shaped cutout in the center of the ceiling, creating an open space. As you sit and gaze, you can experience the changing light firsthand.

3:30 pm: Enjoy the beauty of Japan's four seasons at Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden.

Next, we head to Kenrokuen, which is just a short walk from the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. Kenrokuen is one of Japan's three most famous gardens, representing a stroll-style garden from the Edo period. Its beautiful scenery changes with the seasons, captivating the hearts of visitors.

"Kasumiga-ike" and "Karasakimatsu"

It was a little before the cherry blossoms bloomed, so we were able to enjoy the plum blossoms.

It seemed to be a popular spot for taking photos, especially on the Rainbow Bridge on the left, where many foreign tourists were seen taking pictures.

Everywhere you looked, the dappled sunlight was beautiful at Tokiwagaoka.

At Kenrokuen Garden, there are seven entrances, but when you exit from the Katsurazaka-guchi gate, you'll find the Ishikawa Bridge connecting directly to Kanazawa Castle. Passing through here allows you to efficiently tour both sites.

View of the Ishikawa Gate from the Ishikawa Bridge.

Kanazawa Castle was the residence of the Maeda clan, the lords of the Kaga Domain during the Edo period. The castle grounds are currently designated as a national historic site, and the area, including the castle grounds, has been developed into Kanazawa Castle Park, becoming a popular tourist destination.

The stone walls of the Ishikawa Gate. Most of the buildings in Kanazawa Castle were destroyed by repeated fires, but only the Ishikawa Gate and the Sanjukken Nagaya (longhouse) remain. The other buildings have been reconstructed.

Inside, beyond the San-no-Maru Hiroba (San-no-Maru Square), a long building consisting of three structures can be seen. From left to right, they are the Hashizume-mon Tsuzuki-yagura (Hashizume Gate Continuation Turret), Gojikken Nagaya (Fifty Ken Longhouse), and Hishi-yagura (Diamond-shaped turret). While various exhibitions can be viewed inside, there is an admission fee (320 JPY for adults).

5:00 pm: Final dinner at Izakaya Tamura.

Located near the Higashi Chaya District, along the Asano River, is Izakaya Kappo Tamura.

The journey is already coming to an end. Izakaya Kappo Tamura is a precious restaurant where we can enjoy live snow crabs all year round. As you can see from the many signatures on the walls inside the restaurant, it's popular among celebrities as well. In addition to crab, we can also enjoy creative dishes made with seafood from the Hokuriku region. While they offer set courses and à la carte options, we opted for the "Seafood Course" (10,000 JPY), which allows you to try various dishes even when dining alone.

We started with the specialty of the crab restaurant, the "Crab Vinegar."

The "Seafood Sashimi Platter" delighted us with a generous serving of various seafood such as yellowtail, fatty mackerel, sweet shrimp, shellfish, firefly squid, and crab, all of which you'd want to try when in Hokuriku.

The grilled fish of the day was "Simmered Yellowtail Collar". Its tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture with a savory sauce made it irresistible, and it went perfectly with drinks.

This is the snow crab.

They allowed us to take a photo of the "Crab Shabu-Shabu". It looked incredibly tender and fresh!

The finale was their renowned "Tamura Udon". Made with fresh noodles, its smooth texture is reminiscent of cold noodles. The spicy broth warms you up from the inside. We even bought some to take home as souvenirs.

Leaving the restaurant, we were greeted by the "Ume no Hashi" bridge over the Asano River, now shrouded in the darkness of night. From there, we could see the "Asano River Bridge" illuminated, presenting a completely different and beautiful sight from the daytime.

7:00 pm: Back to Tokyo.

The scene of a collapsed part of Kanazawa Castle due to the earthquake. Some areas were inaccessible due to the damage.

We visited at the end of March this time. About three months had passed since the earthquake, and while there are still traces of the disaster in some places, we felt that the flow of people and the scenery of the city had largely returned to normal bustling life in Kanazawa. It was a stark realization that the situation is quite different from the areas that were heavily affected, like the Noto Peninsula. While it's important to visit and enjoy sightseeing in various places in Hokuriku, this overnight trip made us strongly feel the need to delve deeper and consider what we can do to support the affected areas firsthand.

[Day 1] Enjoying Gourmet Food on a 2-Day Trip in Kanazawa, Where Old Townscapes Remain

Disclaimer: All information is accurate at time of publication.