Have you heard of "monjayaki," a food popular in the traditional working-class neighborhoods of Tokyo? Monjayaki has some similarities to the okonomiyaki that Osaka is known for, but it is a completely different dish. This article covers its history, how it is prepared and eaten, and some restaurants to try it in.
What Is Monjayaki?
Monjayaki is made by mixing in ingredients like chopped cabbage, pickled ginger, and shrimp with a loose batter of flour and seasonings like Worcester sauce, then grilling the whole mixture on a griddle. Once cooked, it is eaten directly off the griddle using small spatulas. It started as a snack that was sold to children at candy stores during the latter half of the Edo Period (1603–1867).
It was originally called "mojiyaki" (grilled letters), as it was a way for children to learn their letters by writing them on the griddle at a time when writing materials and utensils such as paper and ink brushes were scarce. It is believed that this eventually morphed into the "monjayaki" of today.
When you try monjayaki for the first time, you’re likely to be bewildered by the unique way in which it is prepared and eaten. First, the griddle is heated and oiled, and everything apart from the flavorings and batter is poured onto the griddle. Once the ingredients are lightly cooked, they are gathered together, and a hole is created in the middle using a spatula. The remaining liquid batter is poured into this hole and cooked for about two minutes until the center starts bubbling. Finally, everything is mixed together using a large spatula, spread out thinly on the griddle, and cooked for 3–4 minutes until aromatic.
How Is Monjayaki Different From Okonomiyaki?
While both monjayaki and okonomiyaki are cooked on a griddle, they differ in three major ways.
The first is the amount of water in the batter. In both cases, the batter is made by mixing flour with water, but unlike okonomiyaki batter, which is thick, monjayaki batter is thin and watery.
They are also prepared differently. As explained above, monjayaki is prepared by lightly cooking the ingredients, then pouring in the watery batter and grilling just one side. In contrast, okonomiyaki batter is mixed with the ingredients before being poured onto the grill and cooked thoroughly on both sides. Also, monjayaki is often pre-seasoned with flavorings like Worcester sauce or soup stock, while okonomiyaki is flavored with sauce or mayonnaise after it is cooked.
The third difference is the way that they are eaten. Both are eaten with spatulas, but the size differs. Okonomiyaki can be eaten with chopsticks or large spatulas, while monjayaki is eaten a little bit at a time from the edge using small, teaspoon-size spatulas. Also, monjayaki is cooked in large portions and shared, while okonomiyaki is usually cooked and served in one-person servings.
Monjyayaki can be enjoyed in a variety of ways by combining different ingredients, and it can even be made into a sweet dessert! Strange and wonderful flavors can be created by adding seafood, meat, vegetables, cheese, and even crushed snacks into the basic batter mixture.
A dessert often served at monjayaki restaurants is “ankomaki,” prepared by spreading monjayaki batter out thinly on the griddle like you would a crepe, putting anko (sweet bean paste) on top, and wrapping it with the batter. A great way to finish a meal!
The fabulous flavors created by a combination of the batter, which often includes dashi soup stock and umami-rich ingredients, make monjayaki the perfect accompaniment for alcoholic beverages as well.
Visit Tsukishima, the Monjayaki Center of Tokyo!
With so many restaurants, it may be difficult to decide which restaurant to go to. It is recommended to do some research beforehand, as many have distinct features, such as “zashiki” seating where you dine on a low table with tatami floor seating, private rooms, having a long history of operation, or even being izakaya bar style.
Try Monjayaki in Tokyo's Traditional Working-Class Neighborhood
Daruma (Tsukishima)
A favorite of monjayaki aficionados, Daruma offers the flexibility of selecting one of two dashi stocks (Japanese-style or chicken bone) to match the flavor of the batter to the rest of the ingredients. The restaurant also prides itself on the freshness of their vegetables and seafood, which are procured from Toyosu Market. An added draw for beer lovers is their draft beer, which is only served at select stores in the Tokyo area. The [Gion Tsujiri Matcha Ankomaki] (847 JPY) made with matcha green tea from the famous Kyoto tea maker, Gion Tsujiri, is a dessert that is not to be missed.
If you are a party of three or more trying monjayaki for the first time, the [Small Daruma Course] (2,500 JPY) is recommended. The course includes a selection of okonomiyaki and yakisoba noodles in addition to the monjayaki, with ankomaki served as dessert. And with an extra 2,500 JPY, it comes with bottomless drinks, including rare draft beers, shochu, sake, and soft drinks. The restaurant is in a renovated old house from the 1920s, so it certainly provides the perfect ambiance for enjoying great drinks together with wonderful casual eats.
Tsukishima specialty Monja Daruma
Closed: We do not accept reservations on Saturdays, Sundays, or holidays. Please visit us directly.
Average price: [Dinner] 2,000 JPY / [Lunch] 1,200 JPY
Access: 3-minute walk from Tsukishima Station on the Toei Oedo Line and Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line
Address: 3-17-9, Tsukishima, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Map
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Yoshino (Toyocho)
Yoshino is a warm, cozy family-owned restaurant run by a veteran chef who trained at a famous restaurant. It is the perfect restaurant to try Monjayaki for the first time. All seats are at “horigotatsu” tables that are low to the ground but have recessed floors beneath, so you can take your shoes off and sit comfortably as if at a western-style table. The restaurant is recommended for families with children, as there is plenty of room between the tables.
Their signature [Mentaiko Mochi Cheese] (1,250 JPY (excl. tax)) that includes a whole mentaiko (spicy cod roe) is not to be missed! This is a popular dish, with the firm, succulent mentaiko and the melting cheese creating a sublime, addicting texture.
Their seafood is procured from Tsukiji, so their seafood dishes, such as the grilled [mixed seafood] (1,900 JPY (excl. tax)) that is enhanced by the lovely aroma of butter, are also highly recommended.
Yoshino
Closed: Irregular
Average price: [Dinner] 2,500 JPY / [Lunch] 800 JPY
Access: 2-minute walk from Toyocho Station on the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line
Address: 4-10-16, Toyo, Koto-ku, Tokyo Map
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