Yanesen: A Guide to Retro Tokyo Area and Great Japanese Restaurants to Enjoy Discover Oishii Japan -SAVOR JAPAN -Japanese Restaurant Guide-

Update-date: May 01 2020

Author: SAVOR JAPAN

Yanesen: A Guide to Retro Tokyo Area and Great Japanese Restaurants to Enjoy

Forget about skyscrapers and neon lights! Instead, pay a visit to Yanesen, an area which is enjoying increasing popularity among those searching for some spectacular old Tokyo townscapes. This unchanged nook of Tokyo is home to centuries-old temples and long-established restaurants, which contribute to make the area even more atmospheric to locals and visitors alike. I’ve gathered some of the most stunning traditional spots in the region to visit, as well as excellent nearby traditional Japanese eats. Take a look at these suggestions and hop back in time while exploring the Yanesen area!

See full listings of Japanese Cuisine restaurants found in and around Ueno.

What Is Yanesen? History and Background

Yanesen: A Guide to This Retro Tokyo Area and Great Japanese Restaurants to Enjoy

Yanesen, located off the beaten path north of Ueno Station, is the collective name for the Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi neighborhoods. Historically, it was the temple district of Tokyo, which is why even today, just making your way through one of its main streets will unearth more temples than houses! Yanesen was miraculously spared from the devastation left by the 1923 Kanto earthquake and the air raids of World War II, and as a result, it has not changed much in the years past. It is still characterized by its traditional Japanese townscape and retro ambiance.

What’s So Special About Yanesen?

The Yanesen area was actually the first place I lived in when I first moved to Tokyo from Italy a couple of years ago. Anyone who thinks that ancient Tokyo disappeared long ago couldn't be more wrong; the lively Yanesen refutes the stereotype of a grey Tokyo, soaked in neon lights and modernity. For both travelers and locals, the area represents the possibility of experiencing the true essence of Japanese culture even in a metropolis!

Things to Do in Yanesen: Traditional Spots to Visit

Venture down the area’s narrow zig zag of passageways, discover its small artisan shops, track down the infinite number of temples and old buildings that reside here… There’s a whole host of ways to enjoy this stunning part of Tokyo!

Tennoji Temple

Founded in 1274, Tennoji Temple is the oldest temple in the Yanaka neighborhood. It encloses a Giant Buddha statue that peacefully sits surrounded by several cherry trees and immaculate green grass. I still vividly remember the first time I saw the fascinating contrast between the Buddha statue and the skyscraper-filled skyline of modern Tokyo—it’s a sight worth seeing, for sure! From the temple, there’s a road that spreads through Yanaka Cemetery named “Cherry Blossom Avenue”. This becomes a long pink tunnel of flowers as soon as the sakura start to bloom in spring.

Yanaka Ginza

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This shopping street well represents the retro downtown flavor of the Yanesen area. Trades of all kinds line the street, with old wooden plates announcing the shops: the tailor, the greengrocer, the tea seller. Here visitors can find not just old crafts, astonishingly cheap street foods, and a wide variety of souvenirs, but they can also observe the ongoing daily activities that take place in Yanesen.

Nezu Shrine

Nezu Shrine is possibly one of Japan’s oldest shrines, since according to legend, it was founded in the 1st century AD. The shrine is best visited during the Bunkyo Azalea Festival, when thousands of azalea bushes bloom pink, white, and red on its spacious hillside garden. But it can be enjoyed any time of the year thanks to its most prominent feature: a tunnel of torii (Shinto shrine gates) that resemble those at Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto. This covered vermillion path overlooks the main building of the shrine and leads to some viewing platforms. Why not rest there for a few minutes and admire the tranquil carp pond below?

Yasuda Former Residence and Shiki-an Villa

One of the things I love most about Yanesen is the myriad of traditional buildings that still stand in its neighborhoods. For an efficient trip, my suggestion is to focus on two of the many historic buildings of the area. The Yasuda Former Residence, built in 1919, is one of the few large traditional houses remaining in Tokyo. Open to visitors on Wednesdays and Saturdays for as cheap as 500 JPY, it offers guided tours with English-speaking volunteers. The other building I have to recommend, Shiki-an, was the residence of a Japanese literary leader. It has a deeply poetic atmosphere, and its lush green garden is a peaceful place to take a rest.

Things to Do in Yanesen: Traditional Eats to Enjoy

Now that you’ve sufficiently explored Yanesen, you’re probably quite hungry from all the walking. The neighborhoods that make up Yanesen are dotted with a lot of traditional eateries, some of them even built inside centuries-old buildings, so why not continue on the traditional Japanese streak by savoring some great classic dishes?

[Unagi] Iriya Kishimoji-monzen Nodaya

Unagi, or freshwater eel, is probably one of the foods Japanese people love the most. It is so traditionally important in Japan that residents tend to eat it at least once a year, during mid-summer, to get extra strength to face the draining and humid summer months.

The long-established Iriya Kishimoji-monzen Nodaya, nestled in the Iriya side of Yanesen, offers not only top-quality unagi, but also utilizes an outstanding traditional technique to grill it called “manben gaeshi” (turning over 10,000 times). This high-level technique can be mastered only by top chefs like the head chef at this establishment. Particularly recommended is their Kyosui (6,000 JPY), a grilled eel set served with rice and side dishes like eel liver soup and Japanese pickles. It will make you appreciate even more the pleasantly traditional atmosphere of the restaurant.

Iriya Kishimojin-monzen Nodaya

Open: [Tuesday - Sunday, National Holidays, Day before National Holidays]

Lunch 11:30 am - 3:00 pm (L.O. 2:00 pm), Dinner 5:30 pm - 9:00 pm (L.O. 8:00 pm) *Closed for lunch and dinner when sold out.

Closed: Monday
Average price: [Dinner] 8,000 JPY / [Lunch] 2,000 JPY
Access: 30 seconds walk from Exit 2 of Iriya Station on Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line. 5 minutes walk from South Exit of Uguisudani Station on JR Lines.
Address: 2-3-1, Shitaya, Taitou-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation

[Tonkatsu] Ponta Honke

Tonkatsu refers to a Japanese pork cutlet coated in breadcrumbs and then deep fried. It was first served in Japan at the beginning of the 20th century when Japanese restaurants began to offer more Western-style food and, over time, it has become one of Japan’s staple dishes.

At Yanesen, you can get a taste of one of the finest tonkatsu in Tokyo at Ponta Honke. The first-generation chef of Ponta Honke was working for the Imperial Household Agency when he first developed the recipe for the restaurant’s original Milano-style tonkatsu. Even now, after decades have passed, the flavor of their cutlet hasn’t changed a bit. They strictly use pork loin, which has a firm softness that makes it perfect for deep-fried dishes. Needless to say, you should definitely try their tonkatsu!

Ponta Honke

Open: [Tuesday - Saturday] Lunch 11:00 am - 2:00 pm (L.O. 1:45 pm), Dinner 4:30 pm - 8:00 pm (L.O. 7:45 pm)

[Sunday, National Holidays] Lunch 11:00 am - 2:00 pm (L.O. 1:45 pm), Dinner 4:00 pm - 8:00 pm (L.O. 7:45 pm)

Closed: Monday
Average price: [Dinner] 4,000 JPY / [Lunch] 4,000 JPY
Access: 2 minutes walk from the south exit of Okachimachi Station on JR Yamanote Line / Keihin Tohoku Line
Address: 3-23-3, Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation

[Karaage] All-You-Can-Eat 100 JPY Fried Chicken -ABURIYA TORIBEE- Ueno Branch

Karaage is the Japanese take on fried chicken, the most universal of comfort foods. It is made with boneless chicken thigh meat that is first marinated in soy sauce, then dipped in potato starch and deep fried. Thanks to all these steps, the meat stays juicy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. It's eaten however you like: with lemon, mayonnaise, or simply plain.

Aburiya Toribee Ueno Branch, located between Yanaka and Ueno, serves this rustic traditional Japanese dish through an all-you-can-eat plan that they offer for the incredibly affordable price of 100 JPY! You can choose to eat their karaage with some vegetables or melted cheese on the side. They also have all-you-can-drink for their alcohol menu, making this an incredible place for fried chicken fans to gather and rejoice! Bring your family or friends along and enjoy the establishment’s welcoming atmosphere and friendly staff.

All-You-Can-Eat 100 JPY Fried Chicken -ABURIYA TORIBEE- Ueno Branch

Open: 5:00 pm - 12:00 am (L.O. 11:00 pm)
Closed: None
Average price: [Dinner] 2,980 JPY
Access: 1 minute walk from JR [Ueno Station]
Address: 2F, Nagafuji Annex Bldg., 4-9-6 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation

[Okonomiyaki] Maru-chan

Okonomiyaki means “cooked the way you like”, and as the name suggests, this Japanese savory pancake is a very customizable dish. Top it with anything you like; the majority of okonomiyaki restaurants even let you cook it yourself on an iron griddle!

In my opinion, one of the best places for okonomiyaki in the Yanesen area is Maru-chan. All their dishes are made with fresh ingredients personally selected by the chef. If you do decide to pay a visit, definitely try their popular Maru-chan Maru, a seafood-based okonomiyaki garnished with mentaiko (pollock roe) sauce. You’re sure to fall in love with its addictive flavor!

Maru-chan

Open: [Weekdays, Day before National Holidays] 6:00 pm - 11:00 pm (L.O. 10:00 pm)

[Saturday, Sunday, National Holidays] 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm (L.O. 10:00 pm)

Closed: Wednesday
Average price: [Dinner] 2,000 JPY
Access: 2-minute walk from Mikawashima Station
Address: 1-7-17, Nishi Nippori, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo Map
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[Sushi] Yoshi Sushi Ueno Branch

Sushi is probably the most iconic Japanese food! It comes in a variety of toppings, and even offers vegetarian and vegan options. From the simple taste of albacore to rich, fatty tuna, you are likely to find something suited to your taste.

In my opinion, no trip to Japan is complete without having a bite of their fresh seafood. A great place to do so is Yoshi Sushi Ueno, a relaxing Japanese-style restaurant with quality sushi! You’re guaranteed fresh, seasonal seafood, as their head chef carefully selects the fish from the market daily. Rice is also not overlooked here; they use the most coveted type, Koshihikari, directly sent from a farm in Niigata Prefecture. The top recommendations here are the Highest-Grade Sushi (2,800 JPY) and the Assorted Sashimi (1,800 JPY), both prepared with voluminous chunks of high-end seafood. Sit in either their spacious counter seats or luxurious private rooms and enjoy one of the best sushi in town!

Yoshi Sushi Ueno Branch

Open: [Weekdays] Lunch: 11:30 am - 2:30 pm, Dinner 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm (L.O. 10:30 pm)

[Saturday] 11:30 am - 11:00 pm (L.O. 10:30 pm)

[Sunday, National Holidays] 11:30 am - 10:00 pm (L.O. 9:30 pm)

Closed: None
Average price: [Dinner] 5,000 JPY / [Lunch] 1,200 JPY
Access: 2 minutes walk from the central ticket gate of [Ueno Station]. After exiting from the Hirokoji exit, cross the crosswalk, turn right, and go straight along the road on the left side of [Marui]
Address: 6-7-8 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation

Tokyo is not just about everything futuristic and modern. It also gives travelers the opportunity to discover the true essence of Japanese culture through areas like Yanesen. So, head to Yanesen to get your fill of ancient buildings and temples, then savor some of the great traditional Japanese eats these neighborhoods have to offer!

Disclaimer: All information is accurate at time of publication.