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Traditional dishes from history brought back to life for the modern day!

Update-Date: Jun 4, 2025

Author: SAVOR JAPAN

Traditional dishes from history brought back to life for the modern day!

Ibaraki Prefecture is home to a rich variety of ingredients, including Hitachi beef (a prized brand of Kuroge wagyu), wild duck, whitebait, spiny lobster, and mackerel. In 2025, the prefecture aims to further elevate its status as a top culinary destination. At the heart of this initiative is the Shokusai-roku, a historical recipe collection believed to have been compiled by Tokugawa Nariaki (1800–1860), the ninth lord of the Mito Domain. On January 23, a special event was held to unveil modern interpretations of rare recipes from the Shokusai-roku. Eight of Ibaraki’s top chefs reimagined these historical dishes with their own contemporary touch. A panel of 40 guests, including world-renowned foodie Takefumi Hamada, Professor Masaya Araki of Ibaraki University—an expert in Shokusai-roku research—and five international resident monitor participants, sampled and evaluated the creations. This exclusive event brought together chefs from various culinary backgrounds for a once-in-a-lifetime gastronomic experience. Stay tuned as we take you inside this extraordinary showcase of Ibaraki’s evolving food culture!

A one-of-a-kind culinary event blending rich ingredients with history and culture.

Hideaki Kuwana, Deputy Director of the Ibaraki Prefecture Business Strategy Department. The event took place at Mito Mon no Mae, located within Kairakuen, where the Plum Blossom Festival began on February 11.

The event kicked off with opening remarks from Hideaki Kuwana, Deputy Director of the Ibaraki Prefecture Business Strategy Department.

"In Ibaraki, a popular tourism destination known for its hands-on experiences, one of the most memorable aspects for visitors is undoubtedly the food they enjoy during their stay. By combining Ibaraki’s rich local ingredients with elements of history and culture, we aim to further promote the Ibaraki brand.”

Taking the stage as the lead evaluator was Takefumi Hamada, widely regarded as one of the world’s top foodies. He spends five months of the year dining abroad, three months in Tokyo, and four months traveling across Japan to explore regional cuisines.

Takefumi Hamada was born in 1974 in the city of Takarazuka, Hyogo Prefecture. His passion for culinary exploration began while studying at Yale University in the United States. After graduating, he spent about ten years working in investment banking and private equity, where he specialized in M&A and fundraising at foreign investment banks and funds. Upon returning to Japan, he founded Access All Area Inc. and became its CEO. In 2017, he achieved the remarkable feat of dining at all 50 establishments on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Since 2018, he has held the No. 1 spot in the reviewer rankings of OAD Top Restaurants for six consecutive years.

Hamada shared his thoughts.

"In culinary-forward countries like Italy and Spain, it's common for people to travel to rural areas just to enjoy great food. That got me thinking—there must be incredible restaurants in Japan’s regional areas as well. That’s why I now dedicate about four months each year to exploring local cuisine across the country.”

“I’ve visited Ibaraki several times, and on my last trip, I had the chance to enjoy authentic monkfish hot pot. I’m excited to experience the unique blend of local ingredients, history, and culture here today, as it adds an original touch to Ibaraki’s gastronomic scene."

On the tables, small branches of plum blossoms from Kairakuen were elegantly arranged alongside Ibaraki’s finest local sake, including Ippin from the Yoshikubo Sake Brewery. Guests enjoyed pairing the drinks with the specially prepared dishes, enhancing their dining experience.

Additionally, Professor Masaya Araki of Ibaraki University, a key member of the Mito Shokusai-roku Kenkyukai (Mito Food and Produce Record Research Group), discussed the appeal of the Shokusai-roku as a historical document.

Professor Araki, a leading expert in Shokusai-roku research and a professor in the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences at Ibaraki University

"The charm of the Shokusai-roku lies, above all, in its impressive collection of around 300 recipes. Among them are unique dishes not found in other regional books, such as the method of making bread, which is said to have been directly taught to Tokugawa Nariaki, the ninth lord of the Mito domain (1800-1860), by John Manjiro, as well as shiguremochi and mountain peach wine.”

The Shokusai-roku, believed to have been written by Tokugawa Nariaki, the ninth lord of the Mito domain (1800-1860), was fully transcribed by local historian, Isao Ishijima, in 1943 and included in the second volume of Mito Rekko no Isei to Kosei Undo (Mito’s Medical and Welfare Movement), published by the Japanese Society for Hygiene. This version is commonly referred to as the Ishijima Edition of the Shokusai-roku. ※The original manuscript is housed at the Mito Shokokan.

The Modern-Day Edition of the Shokusai-roku Menu Revived by Eight Top Chefs

(From the right, lined up in order of their dishes going out) Yasuaki Kobayashi, Head Chef of Motoyu Yamadaya Ryokan, Kenmei Harada, Chef at Unoshima Villa, Takeshi Oi, Chef at Ristorante TSUMU, Yoshiki Fuji, Chef at YOSHIKI FUJI, Hideaki Kimura, Head Chef of Yoshichou, Hiroshi Kashiwa, Chef at Chugokusai Kashiwanoki, Kenji Kawamura, Chef at Nonna Nietta, Takashi Ohtsu, Chef at Restaurant Otsu

For this event, eight chefs revived and reimagined the recipes from the Shokusai-roku for the modern day. Leading the way is Yasuaki Kobayashi, the head chef of Motoyu Yamadaya Ryokan, a historic inn in the city of Hitachiota’s Yokokawa Onsen, boasting 300 years of tradition and renowned for its exquisite cuisine.

Chef Yasuaki Kobayashi, the head chef of Motoyu Yamadaya Ryokan, also contributes to menu development for the Mito Shokusai-roku Research Association.

Dish: Scenery of Okukuji, Ibaraki Chef: Yasuaki Kobayashi, Head Chef at Motoyu Yamadaya Ryokan

Chef Yasuaki Kobayashi presents a dish inspired by the Ukeiri Tofu recipe recorded in the Shokusai-roku, expressing the breathtaking scenery of the Kuji River, famous for its thriving sweetfish. This exquisite bowl features ukeiri tofu blended with minced sweetfish, floating in a broth made from roasted fish bones and a puréed turnip base. It is adorned with Ibaraki’s traditional frozen konjac and yuzu, resembling stars twinkling in the night sky.

“Please savor this dish while imagining the stunning ice flowers that grace the Kuji River in midwinter,” said Kobayashi.

Monitor participants from various countries also gave positive feedback, commenting that "not only is the beauty wonderfully expressed within the bowl, but the balance between the soup and ingredients is excellent."

Dish: Memories of Little Bird in Koji Marinade Chef: Kenmei Harada, Chef at Unoshima Villa. Crisp-fried chicken delicately paired with a light, foamy sauce infused with the aroma of Ibaraki-grown apples and herbs.

The 73rd recipe, "Memories of Little Bird in Koji Marinade," from page 117 of the Ishijima Edition of Shokusai-roku, is a historical delicacy. The original text describes the preparation as follows. "Mix three measures of koji and two measures of salt thoroughly. Place the little birds in rows, with the koji placed between them. Use a lighter weight than what is typically used for sushi pressing. The birds should be carefully plucked of feathers, their backs split open, internal organs removed, and the heads also split before marinating."

Hamada, who was meticulously jotting down detailed notes in the evaluation column for each dish, was also impressed and stated, "This recipe is excellent and holds up well to modern palates."

At Unoshima Villa, located on Ota-jiri Beach in the city of Hitachi, Ibaraki Prefecture, with a breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean, Chef Kenmei Harada and Hamada are proposing a new kind of lodging experience.

The third dish comes from Chef Takeshi Oi from Ristorante TSUMU in the city of Tsukuba, which was the first restaurant in southern Ibaraki to be featured in the global gourmet guide Gault Millau and is already becoming a reservation-only destination.

"Nowadays, local production for local consumption and using every part of an ingredient is seen as part of SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) and is becoming trendy,” said Oi.

“However, in the era of the Shokusai-roku, that was simply the norm. Ingredients were used in their entirety. I believe there’s something we can learn from that. For this occasion, we used the entire sea bream."

Dish: Oarai Natural Sea Bream Chef: Takeshi Oi, Chef at Ristorante TSUMU. Inspired by various sea bream recipes across Japan such as Kotakumi no Shiyō, Tai Miso, Taiko Hideyoshi, Hamaguri Hanpen, Tai Shirasiho-ni, this dish makes full use of an entire sea bream. (Clockwise from the bones) The dish features a cream croquette made from scraping off the meat around the bones, served with a sauce that resembles that of sea bream miso, which combines the sea bream’s skin and bloodlines with miso. A carpaccio is made with two types of oils, one from hibiscus species Roselle, and the other from kombu, offering a unique flavor experience. The white plate holds a rich soup made over two days using the bones, with a clam dumpling floating in it. The dish also includes grilled sea bream with kumquat, and benishin daikon stewed in sea bream stock, paired with the sea bream’s cheek meat.

Next up is Chef Yoshiki Fuji of the popular restaurant YOSHIKI FUJI located in Hitachi-Omiya, who has been featured in Gault Millau for three consecutive years and captivates guests with his original dishes.

Chef Yoshiki Fuji from YOSHIKI FUJI, combining French, Basque, and Ibaraki terroir, delivers the blessings of nature and evokes emotion through his dishes.

"The recipe for mackerel soup recorded in the Shokusai-roku is a simple one where mackerel is salted and then soaked in carrot broth (where the carrot is cut in the same way as the daikon). Using the rich and fatty Hitachi no kuni Masaba, which is recognized as a luxurious brand of mackerel, I salted the fish and created a soup inspired by the salted cod from the Basque region, where I trained. By using the mackerel’s meat to make a luxurious broth for drinking, it feels like a variety of scenes unfold before you," said Chef Fuji.

Dish: Mackerel Soup Chef: Yoshiki Fuji, Head Chef at YOSHIKI FUJIA. Soup made by extracting broth from roasted bones and daikon, combined with homemade whey. The slight frothiness creates a delicate, matcha-like texture, offering a light and airy mouthfeel.

Hamada, who has tasted soups from all around the world, praised the dish. "The drying of the mackerel brings out a rich, deep flavor. The way only the essence of the fish is used, without leaving any of the meat behind, is a very innovative approach."

The fifth chef is Hideaki Kimura, the head chef of the renowned Yoshichou located in the city of Tsuchiura, a restaurant that has been around since the Edo period.

Chef Hideaki Kimura from Yoshichou, expresses Ibaraki terroir through Japanese cuisine by blending tradition and innovation.

“The city of Kasumigaura in Ibaraki is the number one producer of koi in Japan, but because distribution to the rest of the country has always been prioritized, there have been surprisingly few places in the local area where you could eat koi,” said Kimura.

“However recently, we’ve finally established a connection with the producers, and I’ve been able to start using the koi in my dishes. Today's menu is inspired by the Koi no Kawatsukuri recipe from Shokusai-roku, with a focus on enhancing the natural sweetness of the koi. Typically, koi is eaten with garlic soy sauce or vinegar miso, but I wanted to showcase its delicate flavor, and ideally, I’d like people to enjoy it with just salt. While exploring ways to present it, I came across the phrase ‘harmonizing with vegetables’ in the Shokusai-roku. I thought that by pairing the koi with vegetables, I could balance the saltiness and enhance the dish. That’s how today’s menu was created.”

Dish: Koi no Nishiki Mix Chef: Hideaki Kimura, Chef at Yoshichou. A remarkable dish where the balance of texture, aroma, and flavor is achieved by adding aromatic vegetables, complementing the delicate taste of the koi.

The koi, which was freshly prepared just before entering the venue, had no fishy odor whatsoever, and its rich sweetness is truly captivating. As Chef Kimura intended, the crispy skin and aromatic vegetables perfectly highlight the firm, elastic texture of the fish.

Hamada remarked, "Koi is often considered a difficult ingredient, and until now, I’ve never truly enjoyed it. But this was the first time I’ve had it prepared in a way that was genuinely delicious."

The participants, including Hamada, were provided with evaluation sheets that carefully checked the following categories: connection to historical recipes, taste assessment, expressiveness, technical skill, and overall evaluation. These categories were broken down into specific items to ensure a detailed and thorough review of each dish.

The next dish presented was Suifu Grilled and Steamed Sea Bream by Chef Hiroshi Kashiwa of Chugokusai Kashiwanoki, who recently relocated and opened in Iitomachi in the city of Mito, last August.
"This cooking method merges the traditional Chaozhou dish “Ice Fish” with the classic Hong Kong dish "Dancyu”. The sea bream is salted and left overnight, then lightly grilled on the surface over charcoal to create a crispy texture, and finished by quickly steaming it over high heat."

Dish: Suifu Grilled and Steamed Sea Bream Chef: Hiroshi Kashiwa, Chugokusai Kashiwanoki. The dish features a bold presentation of the sea bream from Kujihama Beach. The flaked fish is topped with local spring onions, aromatic vegetables, and edible flowers, served with a sauce made from fish sauce and soy sauce for a flavorful experience.

In October, Chef Hiroshi Kashiwa traveled approximately 550 km across mainland China to explore continental cuisine and Chinese tea.

Chef Kenji Kawamura from Nonna Nietta has modernized the Ibaraki udon recipe from the Shokusai-roku, elevating it into a contemporary dish inspired by the Italian Pasta in Brodo di Anatra.

Chef Kenji Kawamura works at Nonna Nietta, an Italian restaurant in the city of Tsukuba that operates on a reservation-only basis.

"The soup, made using the bones of Hitachinokuni natural wild duck, extracts all the umami without wasting any. I added duck thigh meat and meatballs made with lotus root, forming a pasta dish. The original recipe was for a square udon dish using broth, so for the pasta, I didn't use eggs—just flour, water, and salt."

Dish: Pasta in Brodo di Anatra Chef: Kenji Kawamura, Chef at Nonna Nietta. This dish features a rich broth made from Hitachinokuni natural wild duck bones, with duck thigh meat and lotus root meatballs served in a pasta dish created in the style of udon.

The final dish is presented by Sous-Chef Takashi Ohtsu of Restaurant Ohtsu, a renowned French restaurant located in the city of Mito. The dish combines duck thigh meatballs with a soft, chewy gobo mochi (burdock root rice cake) from the modern era, alongside a rare roast of Hitachinokuni natural wild duck, all served on one plate.

Sous-Chef Takashi Ohtsu of Restaurant Ohtsu focuses on local ingredients and offers modern interpretations of classic French cuisine while respecting its traditions.

"I focused on cooking Hitachinokuni natural wild duck in a way that best brings out its flavor. By using the innards and bones in the sauce, I was able to capture the duck's essence while maintaining a lightness, creating a dish where you can fully experience the flavor of the entire duck."

Dish: Roast Hitachinokuni Natural Wild Duck, Tsukune-Style with Gobo Mochi Chef: Takashi Ohtsu, Restaurant Ohtsu. The sauce, made with minimal butter, relies on the gelatin from the duck to create a rich consistency. After the flavor of the sauce fades in the mouth, the distinct taste of the duck remains, allowing you to fully appreciate its essence.

To conclude the meal, Ohtsu graciously included a dessert that was not originally planned for the event. The dessert featured dried persimmons that were rehydrated in water, infused with the flavor of black tea, lightly fried, and coated in a thin batter for a bite-sized treat. It was served with a bavarois made from Omitama Yogurt, which is produced in the city of Omitama, Ibaraki Prefecture.

The dessert that Chef Ohtsu added was a delightful treat. The crispy, thin batter around the dried persimmons contrasted beautifully with the soft, gooey texture inside, creating a perfect balance that was irresistibly satisfying.

After tasting all the dishes, one of the international participants shared their thoughts. "When each chef modernized the original recipes, their individual character and originality really shone through. It felt like I visited each restaurant. Now I actually want to go and experience them in person!"

Mr. Hamada concluded the event with a final review and a speech.

Finally, we asked Mr. Hamada about his thoughts on participating in the event.

"I think events like this, which highlight local ingredients, are incredibly important in regional areas. But at the same time, it’s not just about the regions themselves—it’s about the stories behind them. I believe that having a story is crucial when promoting a region, and the core of that story is the Shokusai-roku. Also, without such historical books, it wouldn’t be possible to recreate these traditions, so the very existence of the Shokusai-roku is a unique advantage for Ibaraki Prefecture. For example, today, I had the opportunity to enjoy koi for the first time in a way that I found delicious. It was incredible to realize that, even back then, people knew how to enjoy koi by pairing it with vegetables.”

“What I’ve noticed while traveling around Japan is that even if such books exist, the local historians who research them and the chefs who put them into practice tend to work in separate fields. It’s difficult for those two areas to connect. That’s why events like this, where knowledge and practice come together, are such a wonderful opportunity. As several chefs mentioned earlier, traditional recipes and historical texts are filled with wisdom and hints for enjoying ingredients. I think this event has given all of us, me included, a chance to rediscover that. I am truly grateful for this incredible opportunity and want to thank everyone for such a wonderful experience."

Moving forward, there are plans to further refine the dishes served today, with the possibility of them being offered at the participating chefs' restaurants. The unique, story-driven culinary experiences of Ibaraki Prefecture are sure to attract even more attention to the region.

Disclaimer: All information is accurate at time of publication.

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